Felicity Lawrence, consumer
affairs correspondent
Monday July 8, 2002
The Guardian
Vast quantities of frozen chicken adulterated with beef protein powder,
which the authorities admit could present a risk of BSE, are being consumed
in Britain, a Guardian investigation has revealed.
The beef proteins are added to make the chicken absorb extra water in a
process called "tumbling" so that it can be sold for vast profits. Thai and
Brazilian chicken breasts have been doctored by processors in the
Netherlands and imported into the UK in this way for at least five years.
Food safety authorities have been aware of the problem since 1997. But
they have only recently developed DNA tests sophisticated enough to pinpoint
the beef proteins, according to the leading trading standards officer on the
case, John Sandford of Hull city council.
The chicken is widely used in pubs, clubs, restaurants and canteens, by
manufacturers of processed chicken products, and may have been distributed
to schools.
"Thousands of tonnes of this stuff moves around our motorways daily," Mr
Sandford said. "My understanding is that some of these products are marketed
aggressively as being difficult for the authorities to detect."
The Irish food safety authority found the beef protein in Dutch chicken.
They had been tipped off by the UK food standards agency (FSA) that there
were concerns about chicken breast fillets imported from the Netherlands.
A report published by the Irish FSA last month found that more than half
its samples contained foreign DNA which was not declared on the label. Seven
samples contained bovine DNA, seven pork DNA and three both. Most also
either failed to declare how much water was in them or had more water than
the label claimed. One sample was 43% water. "The main concern is the source
of the undeclared bovine material," the report says.
Andrew Reilly, deputy chief executive of the Irish FSA said: "This
amounts to blatant fraud. You can't call these products chicken fillets. We
have no idea where this bovine material is coming from." Asked whether he
thought that meant there was a risk of BSE, he said: "You might say that. I
couldn't possibly comment."
The Irish authorities have now impounded the meat, but the UK FSA has not
acted to remove the same brands from sale in this country.
Peter Smith, chairman of SEAC, the government's advisory committee which
monitors BSE risks, confirmed that the FSA had formally alerted him to the
Irish findings. "If you don't know the source of the material, there is
clearly a potential for a risk."
The Irish FSA report names brands by the Dutch companies Lelie, Vrieskoop,
and de Kippenhof as containing bovine DNA. The Lelie brands also contained
pork DNA. All were chicken imported from Thailand and Brazil through the
Netherlands where they had been "tumbled" with water and additives
containing hydrolysed proteins. These are proteins extracted either
chemically or at high temperatures from old animals or parts of animals not
normally used for human food such as hide, bones, feathers, skin and
ligaments and then injected with water into the chicken.
Lelie's quality manager Ronald Buis acknowledged that the proteins
injected in his chicken came from beef. The powder was supplied by Vaessen
and Schoemaker he said. "All the animals are checked by the government in
Holland, or they were checked by some other government."
The Dutch firm Vaessen and Schoemaker refused to disclose the contents of
its protein mixes. Teun Lelie, managing director of Lelie, said V&S was not
his supplier and denied that he used beef proteins.
Vrieskoop makes the Duke brand of chicken, one of the most popular among
caterers in the UK. Sales director Martin van der Arend told us that he did
not know how the bovine DNA had got into his chicken and that his tests in
private laboratories had not found it. "We think it is something to do with
what the chickens ate in Brazil." He added: "We only use proteins from
chicken skin to inject our meat. You need that otherwise the water comes
out." He had written guarantees from his protein manufacturer that it
contained no beef, he said.
The sales director of De Kippenhof, one of whose brands contained 41%
water, declined to comment.
UK wholesalers confirm these brands are still available. One said the
Duke brand would be suitable for use in schools.
Dayal Sharma, former president of the Hindu cultural society of Bradford,
said he thought Hindus, who do not eat beef, would be very angry at the
findings. "It's disgusting and a crime. People will not eat chicken if this
is happening."
David Byrne, European commissioner for health and consumer protection
said that if he received further evidence of fraud he would consider open
proceedings against the Dutch. At heated meetings in Brussels last month,
according to minutes seen by the Guardian, several member states said "this
sort of fraud was extremely shocking and risked undermining consumer
confidence in chicken meat."