Style; The Futures of Food

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http://query.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=F70714F838590C778CDDAC0894DB404482

Magazine Desk | May 4, 2003, Sunday
STYLE; The Futures of Food

By Michael Pollan (NYT) 1988 words
Late Edition - Final , Section 6 , Page 63 , Column 1

LEAD PARAGRAPH - When I was a kid growing up in the early 60's, anybody could have told you exactly what the future of food was going to look like. We'd seen ''The Jetsons,'' toured the 1964 World's Fair, tasted the culinary fruits (or at least fruit flavors) of the space program, and all signs pointed to a single outcome: the meal in a pill, washed down, perhaps, with next-generation Tang.

The general consensus seemed to be that ''food'' -- a word that was already beginning to sound old-fashioned -- was destined to break its surly bonds to Nature, float free of agriculture and hitch its future to Technology. If not literally served in a pill, the meal of the future would be fabricated ''in the laboratory out of a wide variety of materials,'' as one contemporary food historian predicted, including not only algae and soybeans but also petrochemicals. Protein would be extracted directly from fuel oil and then ''spun and woven into 'animal' muscle -- long wrist-thick tubes of 'fillet steak.' ''



 

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